Visit Quetzaltenango (Xela, Guatemala)
For many travelers, Guatemala remains a hidden gem; full of treasures and history waiting to be discovered..
At the heart of that magic lies Quetzaltenango, lovingly called Xela (pronounced “Sheh-la”). This highland city is not only the cultural capital of the western Guatemalan region—it’s also our home at Trama Textiles, a women-led Mayan weaving cooperative that invites you into the living fabric of indigenous heritage.
Unlike more touristic areas, Xela offers a truly immersive experience into everyday Guatemalan life. It’s a city of students, artists, and artisans. It’s a place where Spanish is learned, traditions are preserved, and community is everything.
Xela, the Maya name for a city also known as Quetzaltenango, the second biggest city in Guatemala. Xela is located in the western highlands, 2,400m above sea level, surrounded by mountains, volcanos and nature. The city is full of cobbled streets and a mix of colonial and neo-classical architecture. Many of the people living in Xela and the surrounding towns are indigenous Maya, particularly K’iche Maya. There is plenty of Maya culture to be seen and learned about in Xela, women wearing the traditional colourful clothing can be seen walking the streets and many people can be heard speaking one of the 22 Maya dialects. Xela is a bit less touristy than other parts of Guatemala such as Antigua. The vibe here is more local, offering glimpses of true Guatemalan life.
What to do in Xela?
Hiking
Xela and the surrounding area is known for having some of the most stunning hikes and sure in Guatemala. There are some easy hikes which can be done in a few hours such as Cerro El Baúl and Volcán Cerro Quemado. Both of these hikes are accessible from Parque a Centro America in the centre.
There are also some amazing volcano hikes nearby such as Volcán Santa Maria and Volcán Zunil. These hikes can be done in a day or you can camp there overnight and watch sunrise the next morning. Our friends at Quetzaltrekkers offer overnight hikes to both Volcan Santa Maria and Volcan Zunil and we could not recommend them enough. For those with more time or looking for a longer hike, they also offer a three day hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan. During this hike you stay overnight with local Maya communities, making it an amazing opportunity to learn more about Maya culture. Quetzaltrekkers are also a non-profit organisation whose funds support the Asociación Escuela de la Calle, EDELAC, a project which promotes education and provides housing and other supports to at-risk children in Xela.
For more information regarding Quetzaltrekkers and the hiking tours they offer, click here.
Fuentes Georginas
Las Fuentes Georginas are a number of natural volcanic springs located in the nearby town of Zunil, around a 30 minute drive from Xela. The hot springs are surrounded by the forest and often engulfed in clouds and mist, adding to the relaxed and mystical atmosphere.
There are six pools in total and a number of amenities including a restaurant, changing rooms with showers, and lockers. Entrance is 40Q for locals and 60Q for foreigners.
Getting to Fuentes Georginas with public transport can be tricky as there is no direct bus, instead you must get a bus to Zunil and then a taxi or tuktuk from there. The easiest way to get there is by Uber, usually around 70 to 80Q each way. Some hostels such as Kasa Kiwi offer tours to Fuentes Georginas for around 150Q including transport and entry.
Fuentes Georginas is very popular with locals on the weekends and so can get quite crowded. For a quieter experience we recommend going during the week, the earlier the better.
Landmarks in Xela
At the centre of Xela is Parque a Centro América, a perfect spot for sitting in the sun during the day and nearly always busy with locals by night. Many historical landmarks can also be found here including Catedral del Espíritu Santo. This cathedral is one of the oldest and most important in Guatemala. The outside facade is from the 1500’s whilst inside there is a newer church with four domed roofs built in 1899.
Next door to Catedral del Espíritu Santo is Palacio Municipal de Quetzaltenango. This is another impressive landmark in Xela with 10 columns in front representing the original 10 regions of the state of Lost Altos, of which Quetzaltenango was once capital.
Around a 5 minutes walk from Parque a Centro América is the Teatro Municipal de Quetzaltenango. Outside there are steps leading up to a large building with tall columns out front. Inside is an impressive old school auditorium with lots of polished wood and red velvet.
Visit the Pacas
A “paca” is the name given to any shop selling second hand clothes, shoes, furniture, appliances, etc in Guatemala. Essentially they are the Guatemalan equivalent of thrift shops. Pacas can be found in nearly every little town and village in Guatemala, they are everywhere.
For those that love second hand and sustainable fashion a visit to the pacas is a must. There are some really good pieces to be found at unbelievably low prices. Some of the best pacas in Xela are the ones you happen to find while wondering around the city. These smaller, independently owned pacas can have clothing, shoes, and accessories from prices as low as 10Q. There are also giant pacas containing everything and everything which are usually part of a chain. The most common of these is Megapaca. You could easily spend hours in one of these looking through the racks.
Some of our favourite pacas in Xela can be found on Calle 7a and Calle 8a near el Mercado Municipal.
Eat Like a Local
There are heaps of different options in Xela for food, at several different price points. Some of the most local food and ingredients can be found at the markets, of which there are three in Xela. The most central is El Mercado Municipal located next to Parque a Centro América. Inside the market are a number of stalls selling meat, fruit, vegetables, spices, flowers and more. There are also a lot of small food stands in and near the market, many offering plates of food including meat, rice, and tortillas for around 20Q.
There are plenty of street food options by night, also in and around el Mercado Municipal and Parque a Centro America. Here you can find plates of asados, pupusas, pollo frito, tacos and much more. We highly recommend you try garnachas, a traditional Guatemalan street food composed of fried tortillas, usually with ground meet or refried beens on top served with shredded cabbage, cheese, spicy pickled vegetables and other toppings. You can buy them from a number of different street vendors for around 20Q a portion. For the best street tacos, we recommend you visit a little street cart called Super Tacos El Quetzalteco, found on the corner of Parque a Centro América, across the street from Patsy. They only serve one type of tacos, pork but in our opinion they are the best in Xela!
If you are looking for other types of food, something different to typical latin American food, there are many options also. Rustic is a little cafe with amazing baked goods, sandwiches and soups. El Sabor de India has amazing Indian food with really good portion sizes. If you’re looking to satisfy a burger and fries craving then Café Museo La Luna is the spot to go to. It is worth noting that these places have a higher price point than the previous places mentioned but they are worth it for a treat.
Other places to see in Xela:
La Ermita Church- First Church in Central América.
Catedral del Espíritu Santo – Explore Xela’s historic center and churches.
Mercado Minerva – Get lost in one of the most colorful and local markets.
Visit local art centers and theaters that showcase Guatemalan creativity such as the Municipal Theathre, Casa No'j and Centro Cultural Minerva.
