Sustainable Fashion Industry: Ethics, Global Supply Chains, and the Future of Fashion
How Globalization Transformed the Fashion Industry
The fashion industry has undergone a profound transformation through globalization. Since 2010, garment production has grown faster than the global population, driven by complex supply chains that often prioritize cost over sustainability. Globalization has transformed the fashion supply chain into a global one; accordingly, from the second half of the 20th century, apparel firms have expanded and moved their production to developing countries, mainly located in the Global South of the world, where they could benefit from convenient labour costs and lack of regulations these countries offered.
On the other hand, these countries, helped by the progressive market liberalization, have welcomed the investment of foreign firms as an opportunity of economic expansion and accepted the rhythm of an extremely competitive system. Unfortunately, economic growth not always stands as a synonym for sustainable development.
COVID-19 and Its Impact on the Global Fashion Supply Chain
If we consider the impact of Covid-19 on the sector, the situation becomes more critical. By affecting the apparel sector through factory closures, falling consumers' demand and obstacles to the supply chain, it has demonstrated the necessity of a joint international cooperation, to finally recover the industry from unsustainable practices.
But how is it possible to combine economic growth with the three dimensions of sustainable development (economic, social, environmental)?
The Rana Plaza Collapse and the Rise of Ethical Fashion Awareness
In 2013, a textile factory collapsed in Bangladesh resulting in a catastrophic loss of life. Blame for the deaths was placed on the garment businesses for ignoring the repeated warnings of the buildings impending collapse. The Rana Plaza collapse is considered to be the deadliest industrial accident in history, sparking international debate and giving space to interesting new sustainability projects. Global attention turned toward the large fashion brands exploiting human life and the environment. Media and consumer pressures for change encouraged the start of various initiatives to improve the process of production.
Global Initiatives Supporting Sustainable Fashion
One of the emerging global initatives was the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion. The network brings together organizations across the chain of production to impliment new laws and policies that protect workers and minimize the environmental impact of the textile industry from production to disposal. "The scope of the Alliance’s work extends from the production of raw materials and the manufacturing of garments, accessories and footwear, to their distribution, consumption, and disposal."
Another noteworthy initiative is certainly the Ethical Fashion Initiative, founded in 2018 by the UN officer Simone Cipriani, yet first conceived in Nairobi in 2009. It aims to transform the garment industry in a development engine, through the support of creativity and the tutelage of cultural heritage. In fact, its strategy consists in connecting local communities of artisans in the South of the world with fashion brands committed to sustainability, thus creating workplace and ensuring compliance to the labour standards defined by the International Labour Organization (ILO).
Grassroots Fashion Revolution
At the same time, alternative models rooted in community, craftsmanship, and cultural heritage are emerging as powerful responses to these challenges. Trama Textiles is a slow-fashion company that is dedicated to uplifting Maya women and perserving the cultural heritage of the backstrap loom. By doing so, the Initiative actively participates to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals. In particular, it focuses on the SDG 1 (no poverty), 5 (gender equality), 8 (decent work and economic growth), 12 (responsible consumption and production) and supports goals 10 (reduced inequalities), 13 (climate action), and 16 (peace, justice and strong institutions).
What Is Sustainable Fashion? Balancing Economic, Social, and Environmental Impact
To answer the above-asked question, we believe that...
Economic Sustainability in the Fashion Industry
- reinforce protection systems for garment workers
- enhance job mobility
- let women access leadership roles
- invest in new skills, to foster circularity.
Social Responsibility and Ethical Labor Practices
- to monitor the implementation of labour standards
- promote decent work
- ensure social dialogue and social protection.
Environmental Sustainability in Fashion Production
- reduce waste by recycling and upcycling
- implement the use of less consuming/polluting materials
How Trama Textiles Supports Ethical and Sustainable Fashion
We at Trama Textiles are constantly in search for inspiration from these virtuous examples of good practices, and feel honoured to be able to share new ones too. Discover the daily life of our weavers and how traditional craftsmanship contributes to a more ethical fashion system in this short documentary.!
We would like to thank Alessandra Tognolatti, our volunteer, for allowing us to peek at her MA thesis.
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