Semana Santa in Quetzaltenango: Traditions, Processions & Alfombras in Guatemala

If you happen to find yourself in Quetzaltenango during Semana Santa, count yourself lucky and you are about to experience a deeply spiritually unique and traditionally Guatemalan week of celebrations. It has grown to be heavily linked to local identity and the preservation of cultural traditions. Semana Santa in Guatemala has developed to encompass both Maya and Catholic customs, making it extremely distinctive to other Easter celebrations that take place across the world.

Over the Easter period, over 460 processions will take place across Guatemala and some of the most spectacular can be found in Quetzaltenango. The processions tend to re-enact the funeral of Christ. The shining stars of each procession are the andas that symbolise scenes from the bible, such as, the life, death, and resurrection of Jesus Christ. They are large wooden floats that are carried through the streets by cucuruchos. The cucuruchos are men chosen by the church to participate in the processions. They typically wear a tunic, a pointed hood, and a cape. A highland brass band walks with the procession and plays deep, mourning music that clings to the air. It externalises the grief and transforms the pain of Christ’s death into something audible. The andas are immensely heavy and this physical suffering of the cucuruchos is viewed as a great honour by the community. It is a way of sharing Christ’s suffering and feeling his sorrow physically. The processions have a unique way of morphing an abstract and theological feeling into something real and tangible for the community in Quetzaltenango.

Semana Santa in Quetzaltenango is a unique blend of Catholic and Maya traditions, and this is represented through the intricate alfombras that can be spotted throughout the entire Easter week. Directly translating to carpet in English, the alfombras are works of art made from vibrant flowers, sawdust, and leaves that are laid out in the streets all over the city. Typically, they feature a combination of Catholic and Maya imagery, like biblical scenes, birds, animals, and geometric patterns. These symbols are also reflected in Maya weaving traditions, where thread as oppsed to saw dust is used to create storys and meaning. The alfombras are distinctively ephemeral; after months of careful planning and crafting, they are destroyed by the processions marching by almost immediately. The concept of the alfombra is Maya, traditionally they created carpets for their gods to walk on. Thanks to Semana Santa, they have evolved into a powerful symbol of sacrifice and temporality.

 

The Quetzaltecos traditionally eat pan de yema and drink hot chocolate during Semana Santa. Pan de yema is a sweet bread made with egg yolks and can be found on every corner during Easter. Families normally bake them in large batches to share with neighbours and friends. Pan de yema is seen as a deeply communal food and demonstrates how the act of giving bread to others is a major part of Semana Santa. Street stalls also pop up during the evening over the week selling everything from pupusas and garnachas to roscas and buñuelos. The food of Semana Santa in Xela is warming, sweet, and comforting in the cold, highland climate.

The deeply rooted traditions in Xela make Semana Santa an extremely special time to visit the city. The mix of Indigenous and Catholic traditions, local culture, and devotion spirituality make a beautifully unique week in Guatemala.

Trama Textiles is closed over Semana Santa so everyone can enjoy the celebrations and spend the week with family. We will be back open on the 6th of April, ready to welcome you for weaving lessons or sustainable purchases!